
How an Epoxy Garage Floor Job Runs
A garage job starts with a walk-through, a moisture test and a crack and spall map, followed by a written proposal. On install day the slab is ground and vacuumed, repairs are filled, then the base coat, any flake broadcast and the topcoat go down in sequence. You park only after the cure time the product’s chart and the slab temperature allow.
Detached Garage Slabs and Cold Cures
Many Skokie houses have a detached garage out back, and that slab is unheated through the winter. Epoxy cures slowly and can stay soft or blush when the slab is cold, so in deep winter we tell the owner of an unheated garage to wait for warmer weather rather than gamble on a cure that will not finish.
Attached Garages and Keeping Dust Out of the House
An attached garage shares a door, and sometimes air, with the living space. We run vacuum dust extraction on every grinder, seal the house door during grinding and coating, and schedule the strongest-smelling steps so the family is not breathing them overnight.
Grinding Through Sealer and Old Paint
A coating rolled over sealer, paint or a failing older coating bonds only as well as that old layer does. Diamond grinding removes those layers and opens the concrete itself, so the new floor bonds to the slab rather than to whatever was rolled on years ago.
Moisture Testing a Garage Slab With No Vapor Retarder
The model code lets garage slabs skip the vapor retarder required under living space (IRC R506.2.3), so many garage floors have nothing below them to slow ground moisture. We test with an ASTM F2170 relative humidity probe or ASTM F1869 calcium chloride kit, because a slab that looks dry can still push enough vapor to lift a coating.
Cracks, Spalls and Pitting in the Slab
Hairline cracks, salt pitting and spalled edges are routed, cleaned and filled before coating, and moving cracks are treated differently from dormant ones. When a slab is heaving, badly settled or crumbling across large areas, we say it needs replacement rather than a coating that will crack along with it.
Winter Brine and Rock Salt on Bare Concrete
Calcium chloride, rock salt and brine ride in on tires all winter, soak into bare concrete and help break down its surface through freeze and thaw. A sealed, seamless coating keeps that slush on top where it can be squeegeed out, and we pick systems rated to stand up to those deicers.
Hot Tire Pickup and Thin Coatings
A tire coming off a warm drive softens a thin or poorly bonded coating and can pull it up when the car parks. Hot tire pickup is most common with store-grade, water-based kits, which is why our garage systems use full-thickness base coats and a hard polyaspartic or polyurea topcoat.
DIY Kits Versus a Professional System
A hardware-store kit is usually a thin, water-based coat rolled over an etched or merely washed slab. A professional system starts with mechanical grinding and builds several coats of 100% solids epoxy and polyaspartic to a stated thickness, which is the difference between a floor that lasts and one that peels by the second winter.
What an Epoxy Garage Floor Costs
Garage floor pricing turns on square footage, the amount of grinding needed to remove old coatings, crack and spall repair, the moisture result and the system chosen. A flake system with a polyaspartic topcoat costs more than a single color coat, and we price after testing the slab rather than quoting blind.
What the Warranty Does Not Cover
Coating warranties nearly always exclude failures caused by moisture vapor or hydrostatic pressure from below the slab. We explain those exclusions before the job is sold and test the slab first, so the warranty you get means something on your particular floor.